I was going to write some long winded post about our passage and thought, nah, let’s not bore everyone! So instead I will give the good, the bad and the ugly about our 3 day, 2 night trip to Isla Isabela.
The good…
1. We got plenty of sailing in on this passage. We sailed 27 hours without the motor on, this was amazing! The boat handles so well and continues to amaze us with her speed under sail. Best of all, it’s so quiet!
2. The stars were visible the second night. I was able to count 13 shooting stars on my 12-3am shift. The moon was also a spectacular orange color as it rose up from the horizon.
3. Neither of us fell overboard- (more about this in the ugly section.). We decided to wear our PFDs and clip in when leaving the cockpit, no exceptions!
4. Along the way we saw a wall of dolphins to our starboard surfing the waves and heading straight towards us. This was the COOLEST dolphin siting to date!
5. Brad let out our fishing line and it was instantly struck by a dorado. He saw the whole thing go down as the dorado’s fin skimmed across the surface. Too bad it got away!
6. I saved a life- at least I hope I did! I was awake on my midnight watch when I heard a bunch of slapping noises. What the heck?! Then I smelled a fish. Upon further investigation I spotted the culprit. A flying fish landed in our boat and could not get out. I tried to grab him but he was so slimy and gross, and kept slipping out of my hand. So I told him to hang on little buddy, I’ll be right back. I grabbed a paper towel and tossed him back overboard. I hope he lived to see another day.
7. More dolphins! We had a group escort us just outside the island. They stayed at the bow for a few minutes and went off their own way. Dolphins never get boring, they are so awesome!
8. Bioluminescence was visible each night and was a great distraction from some large waves passing under the boat. Look at the pretty sparkles and ignore the rest. 😉
9. We got to our destination with plenty of daylight to spare and were met by friendly boaters willing to give us a hand in the challenging anchorage.
Ok enough gloating, let’s get to the bad.
1. We were grossly unprepared! The headsail lines were not run back to their appropriate winches. This meant going up and down each side of the deck in crappy conditions to set them up. Doh!
2. We chose not to raise the main in calm conditions, we thought we would do it when we got around the corner and into the channel. Big mistake!
3. Our dinghy wasn’t securely attached and was threatening to launch off the davits. We should have hauled it up on deck before we left. Tisk tisk!
4. Our boom vang broke and fell down. The day before this happened Brad and I both heard something fall from the mast, it was a nut, an important one albeit. We assumed it came from our radar mount but you know what they say about assuming! This was an exciting moment, luckily Brad rigged up a solution and all is well until we can get a new piece fabricated in Puerto Vallarta.
5. Our main halyard chafed even more due to us sailing with our main fully up and eased out. Looks like we need to have our new sail reshaped at the top to prevent this problem.
6. We caught a fish but he was too small so back in the water he went.
Now it’s time for the ugly.
1. I got so scared that I burst into tears. Has this ever happened to you before? Oh dear, how embarrassing! We were making our way into the San Lorenzo Channel and got our butts handed to us. All of the guidebooks tell you this is a sketchy place and it’s notorious for kicking booties. Here’s what happened. We were in 20-25 knots of wind, fair enough. The problem was we were taking huge waves on our port beam crossing to starboard and our boat was not prepared. These waves were so tall and angry looking due to the wind that they literally made me burst into tears.
2. Brad had to go on deck to raise the mainsail in the conditions noted above. Talk about taking the anxiety to a whole new level. Let me clarify, it was my anxiety, not his. I am so thankful he did not fall overboard!
3. Brad lost his breakfast while working in the above noted conditions. We are still finding specks of oatmeal on deck and on the lines. But imagine being on a nasty carnival ride and working on tying things with your hands. It’s bound to make anyone sick! He is my hero for getting all of the work done in such scary conditions.
4. We took on a huge wave on our port side that soaked Brad head to toe while on deck, and soaked our entire cockpit including me.
5. A squid found its way to our deck. Ewww! Brad found and disposed of him before I saw it.
6. Hygiene- this is also embarrassing to admit but hygiene goes out the window on passages. Luckily these have been short passages so far! Back in real life we were religious about showering daily, now it just seems like so much work! 😉
Well, there you have it. There’s the good, bad and ugly on our 3 day, 2 night passage to Isla Isabela. Not every day is easy and there are tough times along the way. But the overall result is amazing and so worth the hard times. I cannot wait to share the next post with you all. Until then, cheers!
Brad and I visited La Paz not long ago while looking at a potential boat to purchase. We fell in love with the city and were very excited to have our own boat here. The passage from Muertos to La Paz took the better part of a day and we were able to sail for a few hours before surrendering to our motor. The scenery along the way is untouched, rolling hills that dip into the ocean. 
We rounded the corner between Isla Espiritu Santo and El Tecolote and made our way to the La Paz channel.
We were nervous making the entrance because we have heard horror stories of boats running aground. As we made our way closer there were the trusty red and green channel markers showing us the way to go. As long as we kept the boat between the markers we would be fine. A couple of our friends were already anchored in La Paz and we were looking forward to reuniting with them. The odd thing about La Paz is that you can essentially anchor anywhere, as long as you aren’t in the channel. We chose a spot near our friends and quickly got down to the task of having dinner. We were starving! Sunset as we arrived…
The following day we met up with our friends Jim and Steve and explored the city a bit more. Jim located the mother of all ice cream shops, and even Sydney gets to enjoy the tasty delights that they sell.
We make a point to visit daily. It’s a decent walking distance from the dock so it kind of makes up for it. 😉 In other treat news, we were all spoiled when Jim came aboard and made us crepes, with all the fixings. Talk about amazing!
The next morning Steve returned the favor with a delicious breakfast, with fruit and orange juice to boot! As our turn arrived we made pancakes, bacon and eggs.
We spent a few days anchored in La Paz and decided to move to a new anchorage, one that we could enjoy a bit more. We wound up in Caleta Lobos. The first night there the winds were very strong, but the remaining nights were smooth as glass.
Roca Lobos is just outside the anchorage and is phenomenal for snorkeling or diving. Boy were we impressed! The water was clear, there were plenty of fish to see and to top it off we had a sea lion join our party. She was very sweet, curious and playful. We swam with her for a few minutes and made our way back to the dinghy for a break. We were all in awe of her playfulness and agreed it was a wonderful experience.

For once Sydney seemed to be impressed! Or maybe she was just happy to get off the boat and run around. 😉 We stayed at Caleta Lobos for 3 nights and turned around back to La Paz. We were having a serious case of ice cream withdrawals….ok I’m lying, just a little bit though. We had plans to grab a slip and one happened to be available.
We hope everyone had a lovely Thanksgiving and happy holidays ahead! Cheers!!!
After the swim Brad was doing his best to cheer me up and suggested a nice dinner on shore. I’m not one to say no to food so we “dressed up” and headed to shore. There are two choices, a locals restaurant and the resort restaurant. Of course we chose the locals spot! We dinghy’d to shore and were greeted by a rally member named Steve. He gave us a hand with pulling the dinghy up the shore and he accepted our offer to join us for dinner. Turns out Steve has been single handing his 57 foot boat since Cabo. We got to chatting over dinner and really enjoyed getting to know him. It was a great distraction from the traumatic event of losing Zorra the day before.
The next day we went back to the same restaurant for lunch time. We sat outside with Sydney and we met another single handed cruiser, Jim, from Silk Purse. He joined our table and it turns out he also knew Steve. As luck would have it we’ve all become great friends since meeting in Muertos.
Locals side…
Our time was well spent in Muertos but at some point the anchorage went from a calm and pleasant place, to a rolly and frustrating place. If the boat is going to be rolly, I’d rather be on the move! Off to La Paz we went the following morning. 


As we pulled in we circled looking for a good place to drop the hook. There’s a submarine trench within the anchorage making things a bit tricky. Our guidebook suggested skipping the anchorage if there were more than 6 boats in it, there were close to 15 as we came in. We took our chances, anchored, and headed to shore with the girls. They deserved a break from the boat. Sydney fetched and dug to her hearts content while Zorra rested on shore. Her swollen belly made it hard for her to walk at this point.
We heard there was a hiking trail up the mountain so one morning we decided to take a look. Unfortunately we didn’t locate the trail, but we still had a fun time tromping around. The scenery was gorgeous! We also had the chance to meet and chat with fellow cruisers about their upcoming plans. As it turns out, most of us are heading to the same places at the same time. 
After Zorra passed we felt it was time to leave Los Frailes and head to our next destination. Los Muertos. Leaving was difficult for many reasons but we know Zorra is in a beautiful resting place!

Jessi (Jesper’s wife) joined us for a couple of days and it was awesome to have her aboard! We took the dinghy and explored Lover’s Cove.

Finish Line Party at Squid Row- the people watching there was phenomenal!
Awards Ceremony- the rally held an awards ceremony with gifts for each contestant.
Fueling up- we were reluctant to fuel up because of the horror stories we had heard regarding price gouging. We were pleasantly surprised this was not the case!
Farewell to Jessi and Jesper- I cried as we said goodbye to our friends, I wouldn’t consider this to be a highlight, but definitely notable! Brad and I would be on our own for awhile. Dun dun dunnnnnn! 😜
While under way we tried to fish as much as possible as it serves as a free, delicious protein. It wasn’t too long before a Catamaran named “Happy Together” was crossing behind us and coming awfully close to our trailing fishing line. We called them on the radio and asked them to hook us a cold one, they got the point and kept their distance from our line. Minutes later our reel started screaming. It was pure chaos while Brad ran to the reel, Jesper abandoned the dishes and I ran for the camera, but not before I saw the sailfish dancing on the water! Ooopsie daisy, we had a bundle of problems. Problem #1, we were wing on wing with the wind pushing us forward like a freight train. Mr. Fishy was running the opposite direction. Problem #2, despite Jesper’s best efforts to slow the boat down by putting it in full reverse, it was not enough. Problem #3, we had light tackle set up on our fishing rod so the line eventually snapped. Ok one more problem, what the heck would we do if we managed to catch the darn thing? It would be a miracle if no-one was hurt. Even though we didn’t land the sailfish, Happy Together saw the whole thing and called it over the radio. We had proof of our wild fish story! The excitement from our attempt was electric and had us all amped up and smiling for hours.
The next day I was not feeling so great, I don’t know if it was the sea state or the lack of sleep. Either way I managed to sneak in 3 naps and the 3rd did the trick. When I woke up Jesper told me to check out the bottle nosed dolphins that were at the bow. I had no Idea they were so large! They swam upside down at the bow and appeared to be checking us out pretty closely. It wasn’t long before they grew tired of us and swam away. I hope it wasn’t something I said. 😉
We motored most of the day to help power through the sloppy sea state and low winds. Our reel zipped once again and this time it was a yellow fin tuna, our first of the trip. He was filleted and on our grill in record time. With each catch Zorra becomes very alert, sniffs the air and waits patiently for her scraps. The tuna was the best meal of the trip, joined by rice and veggies. Brad is the best chef!
As night draped itself upon us we were blanketed in more stars than I’ve ever seen. It was as if a firework exploded all over the sky and dripped down to to the sea. Even the Milky Way was visible. It wasn’t long before we were ooooh’ing and awww’ing at the harvest moon emerging from the horizon. It was an orange orb slowly making its way up the sky. We were thankful for all it’s light to be shed because we would be anchoring in the dark after all.
After exploring the beach we went back to our dinghy and went for a swim. This is the first time I have seen stingrays on the trip. Brad stepped or kicked at least 2 of them and carefully shuffled his feet the rest of the day. It was time to head back to the boat and boy did we have an adventure ahead of us. Just as you have to be careful entering a beach with the dinghy, exiting is just as stressful. Every one was loaded up and we had timed everything perfectly. Sydney saw an approaching wave and ran to the back of the dinghy causing Brad to be distracted with her. There went our timing. We were head on with a 5ft crashing wave and all we could do is gun the engine, duck and hang on! Luckily Jesper was there because he caught Sydney and kept her in the boat. Each of us were soaked and the dinghy was full of water, but we were all there and no one was hurt. On our way to the boat we reflected on the incident and went over lessons learned. It would be my job to control the dogs and Brad’s job is to manage the dinghy and keep us safe.
The beach party was scheduled for today and we were served up some amazing food! Fried fish tacos, rice, clam stew and some delicious sauce to go on top of the tacos. The chefs and the band drove 8-12 hours each way to put on the event for the rally. The price per person was $15 and worth every penny. After the party we relaxed on the boat and were highly entertained by the calls on the VHF Radio. There were 2 missing people- one guy was last seen with the female lead singer of the band- the other was a 16 year old girl last seen with a 19 year old boy. Hmmmmm. Both missing parties were eventually confirmed as found on the radio, whew! We didn’t stay up too late because the following day we were setting off for Cabo!
Zorra Bear- I don’t mind the passages too much because I can rest and be near my parents at all times. Plus they keep catching those shiny, slippery things that taste oh so good! I can always tell when they get one because they are running all over the place. Then the smell of blood hits my nose and I lose all control! My nose goes straight up in the air and my parents think it is so funny. Luckily my Dad always takes good care of me and gives me scraps! Only this time he gave some to the big brown one too. I️ thought it was all for me but now she’s acting like she likes it! I’ll be sure to “accidentally” pee in her princess bed as a payback. Nobody messes with my food, nobody!




















Turtle Bay was a great experience and we would have stayed longer if we weren’t part of the rally!






